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Pattern downloads (PDFs): Hill Country Hat, Cuff-to-Cuff Pullover

Each word, photograph, and illustration in this book was carefully scrutinized by me, my technical editor Sandi Rosner, and several extremely observant editors at Potter Craft over a period of several months.

And yet a few errors were discovered after the manuscript went to press. I apologize, and I am deeply grateful to you for your support and understanding

All corrections are noted in bold.

Page 99: Please use this chart. Boy does this one give me a stomach ache. I love these mitts and don't know how on earth the chart got generated with the cables backwards. The mitts are actually quite cute this way (Melissa wore a great pair at Rhinebeck), they just aren't exactly what's in the picture.

Also, Sean from Boston just kindly pointed out something I missed while test-knitting this pattern (which is another reason to have someone who didn't design the pattern test it after it's been tech edited: you know it so well that you don't really see the words on the page). On the Right Thumb Gussett, you want to work 24 sts in pattern, place marker, M1R, p1, M1L, place marker, work ribbing to the end of the round. This will put the thumb gusset smack dab on top of that pretty p1 line you've been working along the mitt. Sean, I owe you some cashmere for this.

Finally, on both thumb gussets you'll have 47 stitches, not 45, after working the first round of increases.

Page 112: We have some numbers that don't match up as they should. When you begin the Heel flap instructions, the first three sentences should read, "Knit the next 11 (12, 13) stitches and transfer them to the other needle. Turn and purl these stitches and the 19 (22, 25) stitches that follow. Transfer the 11 (12, 13) stitches that remain unworked on this needle to the other needle."

Now, we have a little tweaking with the Turn heel instructions. First, Row 1 should read, "K17 (19, 21), ssk, k1. Turn."

Now, Sandi has modified the end of the heel instructions as follows. Note: Work Rows 11 and 12 (as detailed below) regardless of which size you're knitting. The book originally separated out these rows by size, but you'll see that Sandi now does that with Rows 13-16 instead. So, for all sizes:

Row 11: Slip 1, k14, ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 12: Slip 1, p15, p2tog, p1. Turn.
For size S, go to **.

For sizes M and L only, Row 13: Slip 1, k16, ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 14: Slip 1, p17, p2tog, p1. Turn.

For size M, go to **.

For size L only, Row 15: Slip 1, k18, ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 16: Slip 1, p19, p2tog, p1. Turn.

** Next row: Knit 18 (20, 22) stitches. Continuing with the heel needle, pick up and knit 15 (16, 16) stitches along left-hand side of the heel flap. With the instep needle, work 30 (34, 38) stitches in Cable and Chevron pattern as established. With the heel needle, pick up and knit 15 (16, 16) stitches along right hand side of heel flap. 78 (86, 92) stitches.

Transfer the first 2 (3, 4) and last 2 (3, 4) stitches from the instep needle to the heel needle. 26 (28, 30) stitches remain on the instep needle, and 52 (58, 62) stitches are on the heel needle.

Page 129: Final paragraph should read, "Incorporating the added stitches into the established rib pattern, increase 1 stitch at the beginning and end of the next row and every following 8th row 6 (7, 6, 4, 3) times, then every 6th row 0 (0, 2, 5, 8) times—49 (53, 57, 61, 65) stitches."

Page 143: Please use this corrected stitch chart
Page 140: Right Side, Right Front buttonhole row should read as follows:
Next row (buttonhole row): K3, * yo twice, k2tog, k8; repeat from * 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times more, yo twice, k2tog, k8.
Next row: Knit, dropping the extra yarn over.
Next row (RS): * Knit to buttonhole, knit next stitch into buttonhole; repeat from * 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more, knit to the end of the row. (43 [43, 43, 53, 53] sts.)

Page 141: Left side, Left front, after casting on, knitting 6 rows, and changing to larger needles:
Next row (RS): Begin working from chart as follows: work stitches 1-11, then repeat stitches 2-11 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times, then work stitches 2-3.

Page 148: When starting the sleeves, you may find it easier to change to the larger DPNs and work two rounds of Farrow Rib Pattern before you work your first Increase Round. Doing so helps you get the stitch pattern established before complicating it with new stitches. I found it helpful when working my own cardigan too.

Page 161: Chart C is missing four pretty important "no stitch" symbols in its first row. Without those symbols, you're left to ponder why on earth you keep coming up four stitches short? The answer is in this corrected chart. My gratitude to Peg for finding this.

Also, Renee noticed that when you bind off, you'll have 29 stitches to bind off knitwise, not 25. Thank you Renee!

Here I owe a huge apology to Sivia Harding, who designed this shawl and whose original charts were perfect works of art. But they weren't in a format that Potter Craft could use. In re-generating the charts in the proper format, several vital symbols decided to take a vacation and never return.

As a result, I need you to take out your favorite black fine-tipped rollerball pen and follow along as we make some markings on your charts. They are on page 175, Chart A, as follows:
Row 19: On the 11th stitch, k2tog.
Row 21: On the 20th stitch, work a YO instead of a K stitch.
Row 26: There should be four tidy little purl dots on either side of the center stitch. (Currently, only three exist to the left of that lonely center stitch.)
If you look at your chart like a symmetrical picture, you’ll quickly see how these same changes need to be made in the identical pattern motifs that occur further up the chart. You'll add the K2togs again in row 39, the YOs in row 41, and the purl dots in row 46.

These next corrections are just numeric, and they work as follows:

Page 174: Center panel
Work Chart B. Repeat the chart pattern 4 times around the square.
Work Chart C. Repeat the chart pattern 4 times around the square—392 stitches.
Next round: Loosely bind off 98 stitches to the first marker, knit 98 stitches to the second marker and place these stitches on a stitch holder, loosely bind off 98 stitches to the third marker, and knit the remaining 98 stitches.

Page 174: First side panel
Next row (WS): K3, place marker, * p23, m1; repeat from * twice more, p23, place marker, k3—101 stitches.

Page 180: The instructions for Row 35 (Eyelet Row) should end, "repeat from * to last stitch, yo, k1." Many thanks to Helen for spotting this.

Have you spotted anything else? Do you have any questions? You can always reach me at clara AT knittersreview DOT com.

Thank you!